The woods are lovely..

This revisit for field work has meant an opportunity to go back to most of the villages and forests that I have worked in, in the past 10 years. I have always come away each day after field work with a feeling of contentment because honestly the forests are looking as lovely as they did from before. They may not have grown in size, but somehow look better in quality and yes in some places they have grown more dense in abandoned agricultural sites. I wish I could say the same for the adivasi villages and people though.

Chandran's mother-

M.Chandran is an Irula from Keelkoop village, who is also a colleague. When I first joined the team I used to spend a lot of time in Keelkoop doing up the conservatory, experimenting with seeds, measuring the forests, identifying trees, bee and bird watching.. Chandran's mother was one of the first elders who took me around the village sharing her world view on plants, nutrition and traditional knowledge. I still remember the day she took me out to gather Pheonix leaves. She realised I have a jeep at my disposal and thought it would be a great opportunity to go harvest from Ariyur slopes, where she hadn't been for a long time. We scaled the slopes to get to the top where the plants were growing. I sat, watched, made notes, took pictures while she and her daughter Kanaga labored away. What I remember most was that she was done with her bundle of leaves by 2pm and came up and sat with me and talked away while Kanaga labored on. I was hoping we could both help Kanaga with her harvest so that we could leave the place early, but she was very clear that each one just had to do their bit and that's how this system works. She wasn't going to do my research and I wasn't going to do her harvesting! I did not argue and just waited. I met Chandran's mother after many years recently, she has aged and the lines on her face have grown deeper. She still called me by a nick name she has for me and then told me how she wasn't able to see well these days. I offered her my glasses in jest and she was all game to try it on.

A many storeyed Apis dorsata apartment.-

On the Geddesal road, the bees are now a common sight on the tall Eucalyptus trees. I must have seen these nests for over 5 years now and their numbers are definitely growing. They have found good refuge in these tall plantation trees and according to Rajendran, by choosing to nest on thin branches they can't make a lot of honey, since the branch cannot hold that weight. The tall Eucalyptus trees are difficult to climb and no honey hunter is scaling the trees. Have the bees finally found a spot which is safe from human beings?

Riot of colours-

We do need some rain here in the mountains. The forests were looking dry, trees shorn of leaves and dry air hitting one's face. Was sure that even if I said the word 'fire' the forest would burn. It was lovely though, golden and brown interspersed with the riot of red and orange of the wild silk cotton and the flame of the forest.

Wild dogs after a long time-

On the forest track from Bedaguli a pair of Wild Dogs chose to run ahead of us for more than 2 kms. We slowed, we waited but they preferred to run ahead of us on the road. At one point one of them stopped and was panting and we thought at least now they will go off into the forest but they kept on. It was only after sometime when they came to a herd of Sambar deer that they stopped and moved off the road.

Every time I travel on the road to Geddesal, I am reminded of the rock that Murugan and Ayyasamy pointed out years ago as the 'Jujikal" which means trickster rock or something equivalent to that, because you can aim as good as you can but you can never hit that rock with a stone.  So we always stop and try, I am happy to believe the local team when they say ' you can never hit that rock' but some people always have to prove a point. And the human spirit you see, it has to keep trying!

Woodpecker stop killing my tree

Wood shavings at the base of the tree

A resin rimmed nest for the woodpecker

One of the Canarium trees has a nicely shaped hollow, made by the golden backed woodpecker. I have never seen the bird but Rangan, my field guide has and I believe him. The nest has been carved out so beautifully and has a resin lined rim. Only wish the woodpecker had chosen a larger tree, this one is too young to be bored into so much. Not only has the bird been nesting since the past 6 months, he/she has been actively chipping away at the wood, as is evident from the wood shavings all around the base of the tree. Rangan is mighty upset and was looking at the tree and the nest yesterday and asking out loud to the bird, "did you have to pick on such a young tree, the tree will fall very soon."

Welcome back Anita

2012 did not exist for me in my blog page! It went by on the wings of the seeds that float by me in early spring in the forests of the canarium trees. All I did to the blog was to change the title to underthecanariumcanopy and never returned. I was taken up by the blazing colors of the canarium canopy under which i spent some time and continue to spend. Determined as I am that in 2013 I will write more of my thoughts down, too much is happening around me all the time and there must be time  to reflect.

Life for a tree has many springs, many summers; each year it comes to bear new flowers, fruits, blush with the new red leaves. Was happy to see the trees again in January looking as resplendent as ever. Nothing changes for these majestic beings, they are constant as the stars, watching us down from the canopy, at us humans and our constantly changing ways.

Resilience

Resilience - a word that has stuck to me and catches my eye when ever I see it. I wonder why I am drawn so much to it, it could be another name for the Earth.
Interesting poem I read weeks ago while browsing through the newspaper and I wrote it down hoping to pick it up sometime. I never remembered to look for it but today the note I scribbled is staring at me from one of my books.

Resilience: to stand in the path of lightning
Resilience: to walk when darkness falls at noon
Resilience: to grind yourself fine in the turning mill
Resilience will come to you.

I, Lalla - The Poems of Lal Ded by Ranjith Hoskote

http://www.poetry-chaikhana.com/D/DedLal/

Not older just more literate...

I can't help reading this sign which says 'Visitors Welcome', every time I pass by. It stands at the entrance to the Japanese garden in front of the dorm. I can't remember a sign put up as an invitation, except as a conference banner!

I burnt my tongue the other day eating fries. My first reaction was to look if the bag had a sign which said 'Hot- Let cool before eating' or something.... Getting too used to reading for a living.

Listened to a talk by poet Stephen Winduo from Papua New Guinea - Chewing Buai and Poetry in Papua New Guinea . Buai = Betel nut. 840 languages in PNG, largely alive through an oral tradition.

Heard another scholar who works on 10th century english manuscripts say that literacy reduces memory power. Well next time someone says its because I am getting older I can counter by saying " I am just getting more literate "

Close encounters with another kind...

First he looked pissed off that I was coming back and earning a PhD. This was not the usual 'Aloha' I had gotten used to hearing in Hawaii. Then he told me to place 4 fingers on his little fingerprinting box. He also muttered to look at the camera. After which he did his own thing and never told me when to take my hand off. After 60 seconds of keeping my fingers on his green lit box I asked if I could take my hands off and he pretended not to hear. I waited another 30 seconds and asked again at which time he muttered something which I took for 'Yes'. I have a rule, never ask any questions and never answer more than what was asked – this rule has helped me get through a lot of immigration, customs, visa interviews and etc. But today I had to break the rule. Again while he was flipping the pages of my much flipped passport I noticed that the boarding pass that I had stowed away had fallen between him and his table. I hoped it had fallen to the floor and not just rested somewhere in the middle. I asked again after my passport was safely returned, for the boarding pass. Well he got up for me and then with his polished boots kicked it outside his itsy bitsy cubicle and I stooped down humbly to pick it up almost imagining that in another day and age he would have liked to kick me in the face with those shoes. I know that people have had worse experiences and this one was good enough for me.

Well this added to my weariness in this return. The gentleman had also signed off on my customs card for a inspection of my bags. Well after I picked up my bags I went to the customs officer who asked me to take the bags to the X-ray machine. I was intercepted on the way by another officer who looked at me and asked if I was a student and what kind of foods I was carrying. When I mentioned pickles and spices, he only wanted to know if they were whole spices and I said no. He just waved his hand and asked to exit. Maybe he knew I was a botanist and would not add to the problems in Hawaii with more seeds sneaked in to add to the invasives list!!

Back to Hawaii

Full of homesickness and apprehensions about the future semester, I boarded the plane in Mumbai headed back to Hawaii which is now my 'Place of residence'. Incidentally if I had written 'Timbaktu' on the immigration card how would it matter to them!! I had decided to take a break at the beginning of the semester to do some pre proposal surveys and take part in a workshop at Keystone.

I made it my passion to sleep on this long haul flight and I even refused the free alcohol (which was more to avoid having to go to the bathroom). I didn't read and I didn't watch a movie – I was determined to be miserable.

The plane touched down at Honolulu an hour ahead of schedule, just when I was not ready to come back. To top it I was presented to a very grumpy immigration officer, my very first experience in the many entries I have made in to the US of A. More about that in my post on 'Close encounters with another kind'. Lisa my colleague at the lab came to get me from the airport with a lovely Lei of Ginger flowers. The fragrance helped to calm me and awaken me to the beauty of Hawaii. I started to come back to my Hawaiian reality.

We drove to the campus and I checked into my old room at the dorm and as the day moved on I met so many people who just welcomed me. I stayed awake to beat the jetlag. I slept only at 8.30 pm inspite of landing at 8:00 am. But I woke up at 12pm the next day. Oh man, the jet lag has got to me.

So here I am at night feeling bright and chirpy still on India time but in 24 hours so glad to be back. It really is a wonderful place this teeny island in the middle of the deep blue sea. It poured as only it can pour in the tropics and I love to hear the rain and the gushing of the stream. I am really lucky like in Kotagiri I never hear traffic from my bedroom. One of Merab's friends was telling me that in the middle of the night one can hear traffic sounds in Rishi Valley!!

Organised my room and my food and am ready to meet the world on Monday morning. Had a nice long chat with Tamara in the afternoon. Also got a bowl of noodle and bean soup from Gustavo which was so refreshing. Shopped for grocery and got back by 6 to the room. Some phone calls to reconnect with friends. A little more reorganising. A warm cup of coffee with milk (organic milk brought at the supermarket which it says will stay fresh till March 16^th! Either the milk man in Kotagiri is adding chemicals to make the milk go bad in 24 hours even if refrigerated or these organic guys are pulling a fast one on me!)

Gave up my laptop, feeling light as each semester it seems I shed more baggage!

After the coffee decided to recreate the magic of soupy Ramen noodles ( feature of student life here in the dorms) for dinner on a rainy night. If it wasn't for the company of friends from SriLanka, New Zealand, Korea and Malaysia at the dinner table I think the soup would have been all in the sink. Because of the company I was able to have more than 70% of it. I think I must wait for a couple of days before I forget the fabulous food I had in India and learn to appreciate the instant remedies for hunger – Ramen noodles and Pasta with canned sauces!! I think a seasoning of curry leaves and mustard would have saved the soup from the bin!

Feeling settled already. Looking forward to my Monday and all the schedules of this Spring Semester 2011. Happy New Year – Chinese style. Year of the Rabbit (Meat and Bones included?)???

Middle of the term numbness

Sometimes my head feels numb, I don't think its ever done only read and write and think.....cooking, laundry, room cleaning, are all, once a week. Eating, bathing and sleeping are daily....Its a very limited life this, some call it a luxury, I am still not sure...
Went upto the music auditorium and sat through an hour and a half of a concert by a student. Pieces were composed as part of his final exam. The next week went for a Japanese concert - Gagaku - ancient music and dance form. Yet another day watched the students of theatre perfom ' Waiting for Godot' - Beckett.
Made a presentation at the Wednesday evening seminar at the East West Center on wetlands, the panel was on water. Enjoyed working with students from Pakistan,Nepal, Pacific islands.
This blog is looking pretty boring, its a reflection of my life?? Its been very study focussed and these performances are the only spaces I give myself out of this.
Last weekend was the International Potluck of the East West Center students. Spent a short while helping my friend from Peru make some elaborate dishes. The chillies were yellow pepper and they were hot. There was food from 16 countries for sampling. I can't even remember what I ate. I only know I slept like a log in the middle of the day, first time in Hawaii!
Before I forget my hands are blistered from weeding the little garden plot I have taken over from Vandana. The plot has a curry leaf tree and a banana clump. Have planted some chillies, beans, basil, thyme and tomatoes. Will plant some mint tomorrow. I decided to keep my feet free of mud and wore the boots and now my feet are all blistered, a little mud would have hurt less!!
This was my break from the term paper that I am composing on Coevolution...Just finished the NTFP paper and 2 proposals ( 2 page ones).

Now back to student life in Hawaii

I also realise that my blog is titled student life and most of it is about the Big island which was like 3 days. But yes its going to be one of the good memories that will keep me going here.
I have been writing to people that 2 things I missed most in Kotagiri was not being able to read enough and to watch cultural performances. Reading I would like to do more than I do now. But performances I saw some beautiful ones. The percussion team from Malaysia called the Hands percussion team. Over the past weekend the student at the East West Center put up performances from their countries, easily some 15 countries and nations were portrayed. 2 days ago got to watch a Kathakali performance by artistes from Kerala!! To think I had never seen a performance before!!
The week rushes by and so does the weekend.
The rains are coming and its grey and breezy, feeling absolutely at home now.
Now I feel like I can update from the present... on another day though.

Finally at the Volcanoes national Park

The lava reclaimed the road...And now there is no road.

Start the visit by a very nice explanation by a park ranger.

Getting ready to go 15 feet under the earth into a 30mile long tunnel which may lead to the sea - The Thurston lava tube

Roof of the tube meets the floor of the tube. Pitch dark. A complete darkness, a complete silence. No life except for the crickets that are voiceless and live on the penetrating roots of the trees above.

Leaving the tunnel, into the light..

After the volcanic ash plants start to colonise.

The rest of the tree was probably buried under the volcanic ash, but the tree survives and lives to tell the tale - Ohia.

Dodonaea looking so glorious

A very tourist picture of the lava falling into the ocean. The coast is amazing, the waves angrily thrash against the rock. One can sense tremendous energy in this place.

Thaar she glows in the evening.. The crater at night view from the Jaggar museum

Rainforests

Ceiling of the lava tubes - the little protrusions are called nipples, the edges are titanium coated!! Plumbers and geologists have much in common.

View of the caldera

Another view

Smoke from the sulphur springs

Sulfur banks by dusk

Home stay at the Volcanoes National Park

The little cottage we stay at has such warmth. The photos will speak. I really missed Kotagiri at that point. It was hard to get out early the next day, it was grey, cold and raining and we had a warm bed extra heated with electric blankets. We made sure we switched it off before we went under the blankets!! Wasn't taking any chances!! The people out here had taken good care to keep the ferns, the ohias and we were very much inside the rainforest. My window overlooked Ohia canopies.

After Pteroglyphs...Still on the big island story

This is turning out to be an art film, the eternal wait for the next episode! Old Malayalam joke... I just lost a bunch of stuff I typed but not to be defeated, I plod on.
Stayed on the Kona coast in a hotel that had character, the Manago. Picture of a sign from the front desk.Rent out Kayaks to go out to the Cooks monument. While my fellow travellers snorkel I wade along the shore and snorkel in shallow waters. The colors, the diversity were unbelievable. Some of the reef fish especially the Lion fish, angel fishes of many colors, butterfly fish were also staring at me. Sorry no pictures didn't risk taking the camera in the Kayak.

Manago hotel

Bison - the real Boltu - along the roadside to get people to stop and visit the farm, there was also a zebra!

Also visited the historic monument park, which tells the story of the native people with interesting displays.

The traditional architecture of the native people-boat house.

A temple site, we saw many offerings were left there.

Black sandy beach also a turtle nesting site

Head out to the National Park a good two hour drive through some beautiful landscapes of coffee, macadamia farms, and Ohia forests. On the way stop for a while at the black sand beach. At night we reach our little home stay - Volcanoe Guest House.

Post Mauna Kea - Day 1 on the Big Island

Interesting signs about invisible cows!

Theres a sign for everything in this country and I am learning to read between them!

A view of Mauna Lea the active volcano from Mauna kea. The dark patches are not shadows of clouds but lava flows, cooled off ones of course!

Pteroglyph site

Watched over by the volcanoes

Coral lined beach

We were guessing this was a turtle

I am in a land where everything is a sign or a posted note, don't need to ask anyone anything, if only I could read, see.. Sorry cdn't get the first image to rotate.
I was always pronouncing it Teroglyphs till I hear the american way which is to say Pteroglyphs! Still can't pronounce the P though.
We drove for more than an hour from Mauna Kea to get to the West coast of the 'big island' as Hawaii is called. The landscape was barren or overgrown with fodder grass at some places, where ranches had come up. The army has a lot of land here too.
At Puuokohola a little away from the beach, a white coral lined beach (where needless to say we shed our travel clothes and waded in the water, is a trail through Prosopis that leads to the most silence that I have encountered on land (actually when I was in the lava tube I did encounter more silence but that story is for tomorrow).
All around us was the holy mountains of the Hawaiian people and somewhere in the middle this ancient sketches on rock. I think it was also the time of day that made it special, towards dusk. Read more about the Pteroglyphs at http://www.hale-hoola.com/Hawaii-Petroglyphs.htm 

Mauna Kea - Day 1 on the Big Island

Mauricio, Alesandre, Isabel and Anita at Mauna Kea

Above the clouds.

Hawaiian Rainforest-Enroute to Mauna Kea

Hawaiian silversword just as we ascend the mountain

Road going upto Mauna Kea-The biker didn't make it all the way up.

Don't ask me read all about it..

Keystone Foundation at 14000ft! Cinder cone backdrop

Stands at 14000ft above sea level. Cold desert, no plants, no animals and very few human beings. Unless they were all inside the Observatories. The Hawaiian silversword, felt like it was made of silver foils read all about them at this link http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/asm.htm
All the small hills are cinder cones made from the deposit of lava spurting out of the volcano.
More on this journey later..